Monday, April 11, 2011

Post-Dive in Bali

Surf and Turf: The Hike


On my recent trip to Santa Marta, Colombia, I decided to step beyond the beaten path of hanging out at the beach watching vendors pass and occasionally buying sugary coconut treats from erect women carrying them on heavy bowls sitting atop their heads. If you migrate south for the winter to Santa Marta, you should undoubtedly spend a couple of days basking in the Caribbean breeze cocktail in hand, but you should also seek adventure.

So, what is an outdoor enthusiast to find on Santa Marta’s shores? The best of both worlds: a relatively easy day hike that puts an end to all bifurcating choices between breezy beaches and wild jungles. The legendary Parque Tayrona. The national park, still home to members of the Kogui Tribe, boasts numerous majestic beaches, some more crowded, some less.

If you’re looking for a delightful but relaxed experience, I suggest the Cañaverales-Arrecifes-La Piscina-Cabo San Juan Trail. Hiking through the groomed path through the jungle offers you the opportunity to encounter several species of birds, frogs, and even endangered monkeys who make this sanctuary their home.




And if the jungle humidity gets to you, not to worry! The trail passes through three spectacular beaches where you can stop to relax, enjoy the scenery, and, in true Colombian spirit, enjoy the local cuisine in specially designated areas.

Getting there: Take a taxi or drive from Santa Marta to the Cañaverales entrance to the park. early in the morning (about 45 minutes). Pay the entrance fee (around 20 USD) and head beyond the parking area to the trailhead of Cañaveral. A forty-five minute hike will take you up and down a mountain teeming with vegetation. Be sure to stop at the look-out at the top for pictures and gaze at the Arrecifes beach below before arriving on this white-sand paradise. Once there, watch out for the waves! Swimming is not really advisable here, but relaxing on the beach certainly is.



After a water break on Arrecifes, walk to the other end of the beach where the jungle starts again and continue on the path for about 20 minutes to La Piscina (literally meaning the swimming pool). This is the best place on the trail to take a splash as the waters are calm and the view is absolutely gorgeous.

Swim to your heart’s content but remember not to stay too long if you want to make it to the end of the trail and back before sunset. Next to the beach at La Piscina is another trail marker pointing to Cabo San Juan, the last stop on the hike and the place of choice for easy-going travelers who want to spend the night under the stars.

The hike there is about forty-five minutes, but it is definitely worth it! Follow the stretch of jungle terrain to arrive in a camping zone dotted by tents and humming with the sound of people’s guitars. If you bring camping gear, you should definitely consider staying here to enjoy the pristine beaches and the company of outdoor enthusiasts like yourself from all over the world. You may also choose to rent a hammock for the night (for about $7) in the kiosk atop the lookout at the end of the beach.




But if that tropical cocktail waiting for you at your hotel really calls your name, visit the top of the lookout, take some pictures to share with friends, and make your way back to Cañavarales satisfied with a day hike featuring both surf and turf.

Tips:
-Dress in layers: Santa Marta is very hot but the jungle areas are shady and can get cold. Bring a jacket if you plan to stay the night.
-It is often rainy in Parque Tayrona, even if it's perfectly sunny in Santa Marta, so plan ahead!
-Bring mosquito repellent! The jungle is beautiful but bug bites can ruin anybody's day!

Map:

Angela's Photos